Installing Shower Stalls

No one likes dirty, stained shower stalls. If you find your shower looking a little drab, then perhaps you should consider installing a new one. While you might think the installation of shower stalls is a long, drawn-out process, the truth is this makes a great weekend project with exceptional results. One problem many people face is having a shower with mold. After trying all the strong chemicals on the market without success, the only other option is to install something new, clean, and healthy.

Installing shower stalls on your own would only be a good project if the plumbing is roughed in, unless you have the required skills for this too. Obviously, shower stalls need piping that can carry both hot and cold water to the showerhead. In addition, you would need a mixing valve and new showerhead as a part of the project. Depending on your setup, an air chamber may also be needed.

Shower stalls enter the stack at floor level or below, due to the position of the drain tap. For the faucet and showerhead assembly, these would need an open area on the wall to be installed. Keep in mind that shower stalls might also need some type of support framing so you might want to check with your local building code. In addition, you will need minimum space of 1,024 square inches for your new shower stall, allowing 24 inches from the actual stall to the wall or other fixture.

For installing shower stalls, the piping would need to be installed first. Then, if you would be installing a combination tub/shower, the tub would be lowered into place, making sure the continuous flange fits securely against the wall studs, coming to rest on 1x4 or 2x4 supports. Next, the tub would be anchored to the enclosure, using screws or nails going in through the flanges and then into the wall studs. Next, the drain connections would be assembled, which is done by connecting the tub overflow with the drain above the trap, never beyond it. Remember, this trap has a compression fitting, which would screw over the overflow assembly arm.

Shower stalls and tubs also need as mentioned, both hot and cold water supply lines, running to the unit’s mixing valve. Now, a pipe should be run up the wall, which will be used for the showerhead. On the top portion of this particular pipe, you want to sweat a brass female threaded winged fitting on, one that is screwed or nailed to the framing support. A one-half inch piece of pipe would then be extended for the tub spout. Then, sweat on the male threaded fitting to the end of the pipe.
 
Shower stalls would need to be inspected by a professional plumber at this time, specific to the rough-in work. Turn the water pressure back and, checking the drain’s connection, along with any leaks in the supply pipes for the hot and cold water. The wall would be replaced using moisture resistant drywall as the base. Be sure all the joints between the tub/shower are sealed with silicone caulk, which will keep out any water seepage. Shower stalls would then have the spout, handle, and showerhead installed so you can enjoy a warm, inviting shower.